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Programme 09 / Custom

Send a sketch, a photo, or a garment you already wore out.

Custom development from any starting point. We pattern it, grade the full size set and put a real sample in your hands in ten days, then produce it to the specification you signed rather than to the one that was convenient.

Custom development / patterned in 10 days
Minimum order
100 pcs per colourway
Sampling
7 to 10 days
Bulk run
21 to 35 days
Starting from
Sketch, sample or tech pack
Pattern cutting for a custom garment development
10 days From brief to a real sample in your hands

The best brief is usually a garment you are already unhappy with.

Every custom project starts from one of four places. A drawing, a photograph of something similar, a technical pack from a designer, or a worn out garment the client wants remade properly. The fourth is by some distance the easiest to work from, because a physical garment answers questions a document never gets around to. It tells us the block, the cloth weight, the seam construction, the trims and, most usefully, exactly where the previous version failed.

From there the work is unglamorous and specific. The garment is measured and taken apart on paper. A pattern is drafted, then graded across the size range you need, including ladies fit and extended sizes as separate blocks rather than as scaled guesses. Cloth is sourced or dyed, trims are sourced, and a real sample is made. Nothing goes to bulk until you have held that sample and signed it off in writing.

What we will not do is quietly substitute. If a cloth you approved is unavailable, you hear about it and choose the alternative. If a trim adds two weeks, you hear that at quotation rather than at week five. Most bad manufacturing experiences are not quality failures, they are communication failures dressed up as quality failures.

  • Start from a sketch, a photograph, a tech pack or a physical garment
  • Pattern drafted, graded and sampled in seven to ten days
  • Ladies fit and extended sizes drafted as separate blocks, not scaled guesses
  • No substitution of cloth or trims without your written agreement
  • Your pattern, grading and shade standards held on file for reorders
The range 8 styles

What custom development actually covers.

Custom work spans everything from a single garment rebuilt properly to a full private label range. These are the eight starting points we see most often.

01

Garment replication

You send a garment you like or a garment that failed. We measure it, pattern from it, match the cloth and return a sample built the way it should have been the first time.

From a physical sample Cloth matching Failure point rebuild 10 day sample
02

Sketch to sample

A drawing, a mood board or a description. Our pattern team interprets it into a technical drawing, confirms the details with you, then drafts and samples it.

Technical drawing Detail confirmation Full size grading Physical sample
03

Tech pack production

You have a complete tech pack from a designer or a sourcing agent. We read it properly, flag anything that will not manufacture as drawn, and produce to it.

Tech pack review Buildability flags Spec compliance Graded to your chart
04

Private label and OEM

Production under your brand with your labels, hang tags, poly bags and carton marking. Nothing is subcontracted out and relabelled without you knowing about it.

Woven labels Hang tags Branded poly bags Carton marking
05

ODM and range development

For brands without a design team. We propose blocks, cloths and colourways for a category, sample a range, and refine it with you before committing to production.

Range proposal Colourway development Multi style sampling Cost engineering
06

Fit correction programmes

An existing product with a return rate problem. We analyse the returns data, identify whether it is a grading, block or size chart issue, and redraft accordingly.

Returns analysis Block redraft Regrading Fit sample set
07

Cost engineering

A garment that works but costs too much. We look at cloth consumption, marker efficiency, trim choices and construction steps and propose where cost can come out without the garment getting worse.

Marker efficiency Trim review Construction simplification Costed options
08

Small batch and pilot runs

A first production to test a market before committing to volume. Priced honestly as a small run rather than quoted at a volume price that only appears at the second order.

Pilot quantities Honest small run pricing Fast turnaround Scales to bulk
Materials Base cloths

Base cloths held, everything else woven to your spec.

These are on the shelf and can go straight into sampling. Anything outside the list is sourced or dyed to your specification, which typically adds ten to fourteen days at the front of the schedule.

Cloth Weight Construction Where it is used
Poly viscose suiting 240 GSM Plain weave, 65/35 Tailored garments
Cotton rich shirting 120 GSM Poplin, easy care Shirts and blouses
Cotton drill 280 GSM 3/1 twill Workwear and heavy garments
Pique knit 200 GSM Honeycomb face Polos and knit tops
Performance interlock 160 GSM Four way stretch Sportswear and activewear
Brushed fleece 280 GSM Anti pill face Hoodies and mid layers
Chef twill 220 GSM 2/1 twill, stain release Kitchen and service wear
Flame resistant drill 320 GSM Inherent FR treatment Certified industrial garments

If your project needs a cloth we do not hold, tell us the weight, the composition and the hand feel you are after, or send a swatch. Sourcing to a swatch is more reliable than sourcing to a description, and it is usually faster too.

Watch 02:10

From a flat pattern to a garment you can hold.

Pattern cutting, marker laying, cutting and assembly on a development run. If you have never seen your own design being made, this is roughly what happens between approving a drawing and receiving a sample.

Development run / pattern to sample
10 daysBrief to physical sample
25Years of pattern work
8Base cloths ready to sample
Production 8 stages

Eight stages, and a written record at each one.

Custom work goes wrong in the gaps between stages. Every stage here produces something you can see: a drawing, a swatch, a measurement chart or a garment.

Brief and feasibility

You send whatever you have. We come back with what is buildable, what is not, what it will roughly cost and what the honest timeline looks like, before either of us commits.

Technical drawing and spec

Your brief becomes a technical drawing with measurements, seam types, trims and placements. You confirm this in writing, and it becomes the reference for everything after.

Cloth sourcing and lab dips

Cloth sourced or dyed to your shade. Lab dips are sent physically for approval, and the approved swatch becomes the standard held against your account.

Pattern drafting and grading

The block is drafted to your measurement chart and graded across the full size range, with ladies fit and extended sizes drafted as their own blocks.

Sample and revision

A real sample in seven to ten days. Most projects take one revision round, some take two, and we would rather do the second round than talk you out of it.

Written sign off

Bulk is not cut until you sign off the sample in writing. That signed sample is retained so there is an agreed physical reference if anything is disputed later.

Bulk production

Cut in lay against the approved marker, assembled by operation, with your labels, tags and packaging applied as specified.

Inspection and dispatch

AQL 2.5 with measurement checks against the signed spec, then packed, carton marked and shipped with export documents prepared here.

Why Benjima Buyer checks

Six things that go wrong in custom manufacturing.

These are the six failures we hear about most often from clients arriving from a previous supplier. Each one is a process decision rather than a skill problem.

Quiet substitution

A cloth or trim you approved is swapped for something similar without anyone telling you. If a substitution is necessary here, you are asked, you choose, and it is recorded on the spec.

Grading by scaling

A single block scaled up and down produces a garment that fits the middle size and nothing else. Ladies fit and extended sizes are drafted as separate blocks, which costs more at development and far less in returns.

Optimistic lead times

A date that assumes nothing goes wrong is not a date. If a dyed to order cloth adds two weeks, that appears in the quotation, not in an apology email during week five.

The sample that was not the sample

Bulk arriving different to the approved sample is the most common complaint in this industry. The signed sample is retained here as the physical reference for the bulk run.

Hidden subcontracting

Work quietly passed to a third party and relabelled. You will always know where your order is being produced, and we will not claim capability we do not have to win a project.

Volume pricing on a pilot run

A price quoted at volume that only materialises at the second order. Small batch work is priced as small batch work, so the cost you plan around is the cost you pay.

Case notes Recent runs

Three development projects and where each one started.

A photograph, a returns spreadsheet and a garment in a bin bag. All three became production.

Brand / from a photograph

Apex Airlines

A photograph of a jacket the brand team liked, with no tech pack and no supplier willing to start from it. Patterned and sampled in nine days, then developed into a full capsule.

9 daysTo first sample
1,400Pieces
Retailer / fit correction

Blue Ridge Retail

A product line with a return rate driven by sizing rather than quality. Returns data analysed, block redrafted and the range regraded across separate ladies and extended blocks.

3Blocks redrafted
2,400Pieces
Startup / pilot run

Independent label

A first production run to test a market, priced honestly as a small batch rather than quoted at a volume price. Scaled to full production at the third order on the same held pattern.

100Pilot quantity
3rdOrder to full volume
Before you ask 8 answers

What brands and buyers ask before starting a project.

What do you need from me to start?
Whatever you actually have. A sketch on paper, a photograph of something similar, a complete tech pack, or a worn garment in an envelope. A physical garment is the most useful of the four because it answers questions about cloth weight, seam construction and trims that a document usually leaves open. Send what you have and we will tell you what else is needed.
What is the minimum order for custom development?
One hundred pieces per colourway. The pattern drafting, grading and sampling cost has to spread across the run, which is why custom carries a higher minimum than our standard programmes. If your quantity is below that, say so and we will tell you honestly whether the project makes commercial sense yet.
How long does a sample take?
Seven to ten days from an agreed technical drawing, assuming the cloth is one of our base cloths. If the cloth needs to be sourced or dyed to your shade, add ten to fourteen days at the front. Most projects take one revision round after the first sample, which is normal and worth doing properly.
Is sampling charged separately?
Yes, sampling is charged, and the cost is credited against your bulk order when the project goes to production. Charging for it is what keeps sampling honest. Suppliers who give free samples recover the cost somewhere, usually in the bulk unit price or in the cloth quality.
Who owns the pattern and the designs?
You do. Your designs, your pattern and your graded size set belong to you, are held against your account and are not used for anyone else. If you move production elsewhere, the pattern goes with you. We would rather keep clients because the work is right than because the files are held hostage.
Can you produce under our own brand?
Yes. Woven labels, care labels, hang tags, branded poly bags and carton marking to your specification. Nothing carries our name unless you want it to. For brands selling into retail we will also match packing and carton marking to your distribution centre requirements.
What happens if the bulk does not match the sample?
The signed sample is retained here as the physical reference, so there is an agreed benchmark rather than two differing memories. If bulk deviates from it, that is our problem to fix. Stitching and fabric faults inside twelve months are replaced, and a systematic deviation from the approved sample is handled as a remake rather than a discount.
Will you tell us if our design will not work?
Yes, at the feasibility stage, before either of us has spent money. Some details do not manufacture as drawn, some cloth and construction combinations will not behave, and some cost targets are not reachable with the specification attached. You will get that conversation early, which is the only time it is useful.

Send the worn out one.

A garment in an envelope is a better brief than a document. Post it, or send photographs with a few measurements, and you will have a costing and an honest timeline back within one working day.

Sales line
+92 329 6140058
Minimum order
100 pieces per colourway
Reply time
One working day